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hua shan is the highest of china’s five sacred mountains. it is 120kilometers east of xian. it has five peaks that resemble the petals of a flower.the highest peak is 2180 meters (7085 feet).
we had had discussions about going to hua shan with some graduate studentsfrom computer science. that didn’t work out due to changes in schedules on bothsides. also, they were planning to do the climb at night to be able to reach thepeak at sunrise. that did not appeal to us. we wanted to spend a night on themountain. fran’s department arranged a trip for us, making reservations at thesimple hotel on the north peak. they sent two graduate students to accompany us,though they had not been to hua shan before. we met them at 8:00 on saturdaymorning and took a taxi to the train station. there we asked around and locateda mini-bus. the bus made a couple of stops. one was to see a presentation aboutthe traditional medicines grown on the mountain and a chance to buy some ofthem. it probably would have been interesting if we understood chinese. ourguides gave us the general outline about what was said. the other stop was aquick lunch stop.
there are two approaches to hua shan. [chinese proverb: “there is one roadand only one road to hua shan,” meaning that sometimes the hard way is the onlyway.] the west entrance involves 10 kilometers of walking on a road before youstart climbing. we went with the east entrance, where the bus brings you to thebase of a cable car that goes up to the 1500 meter north peak. our plan was towalk up to the north peak, then climb to the four other peaks the next day andtake the cable car down.
we started the climb in the early afternoon. the path consists of stonesteps with rough chain link handrails in the narrowest areas (we wore ourbicycling gloves for hand protection). physically, it is more like climbing thesteps of a skyscraper than trails at home. however, the temperature was about 95degrees and there was not much shade. we brought lots of water, including somebottles that we froze and some gatorade that we got at the fancy departmentstore in downtown xian. there are plenty of refreshment stands along the waywhere you can buy bottled water, the chinese equivalent of gatorade, and otherdrinks or snacks at a premium price.
we reached the north peak before 4:00 pm and rested at the hotel. our roomwas basic, but comfortable and clean enough. because water is scarce on themountain, there were neither showers nor sinks available for washing. in thatsense the experience felt like camping, but we were sleeping in a big tent!
after dinner at the hotel restaurant, we spent some time talking with ourguides. we were a bit surprised to find that they both think of japannegatively, but like the u.s. it seems that japan’s wwii behavior in china hasnot been forgotten, and is emphasized in school.
we saw a beautiful sunset and watched the sky become resplendent withthousands of stars, including the milky way galaxy. this was the clearest skythat we have seen in china. the fresh air at hua shan is a treat!
our guides had both been planning to get up at 4:00 am to watch thesunrise. fran and i made sleep a priority. we did happen to wake up a bit beforesunrise (our room faced east) and went outside to watch the sky become rosy.ironically, our guides missed the sunrise because they had stayed up latewatching the european soccer championships on the television in their room
the plan for the day was to climb the other four peaks, but we reserved theright to shorten the route. the first part was a steep climb to middle peak.after the low north peak, all the others are at roughly __ meters. there werecrowds on the way to middle peak – mostly chinese hikers but we did see a fewother wai guo (foreigners) as well.
we visited two taoist temples en route to middle peak. each one had analtar with incense and offerings of fruit. the friendly monks invited us to saya prayer or to send blessings to loved ones. fran accepted their invitation. atthe first temple, she lit incense sticks and knelt on a cushion in front of thealtar saying a silent prayer for our safe journey to the various summits of huashan (the prayer was answered). at the second temple, she knelt on a cushion infront of the altar and sent silent blessings to several friends who areexperiencing challenging situations in their lives at present. after eachblessing, she leaned forward and the monk struck a drum.
after middle peak, the crowds got much thinner. the next was east peak,which had a steep ladder climbing rock. fran was dubious about this ascent, butrealized that the ladder wasn’t so bad and went for it. that was a good decisionbecause we were then able to do a loop and the trails got almost empty at thispoint. after skirting the top of a cliff with a steep dropoff on both sides, wehad a pleasant walk to south peak and west peak. there was even a small amountof dirt trail! the summit of south peak was the highest point on hua shan, so ofcourse we asked another hiker to take a photo of our guides and us. the viewsfrom the tops of each peak were beautiful. hua shan and the surroundingmountains are very rugged and remind us somewhat of hiking in the southwesternunited states or the sierras.
we took a route that eventually brought us to the main line returning downfrom middle to north peak. we were happy to have ascended each of the five peaks(petals) of flower mountain.
cable car (the longest in asia), it was just 7 minutes down to the parkentrance. we caught a shuttle bus into town, then transferred to a bus forxian.
our guides told us that we had walked up and down a total of 4000 stairs!we were glad that we did not have this information when we started. for threedays after returning home, our sore leg muscles instructed us to take theelevator to our fifth floor apartment rather than climbing the stairs.
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